早餐？姆们北京没早餐！
<section class="xmteditor" style="display:none;" data-tools="新媒体管家" data-label="powered by xmt.cn" data-mpa-powered-by="yiban.io"></section><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;line-height: normal;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="max-width: 100%;text-align: center;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.5px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="max-width: 100%;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;letter-spacing: 1px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong neue="neue" helvetica="helvetica" microsoft="microsoft" yahei="yahei" arial="arial" sans-serif="sans-serif" rgb="rgb" border-box="border-box" break-word="break-word" important="important" pingfang="pingfang" sc="sc" hiragino="hiragino" sans="sans" gb="gb" ui="ui" px="px" style="max-width: 100%;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);font-size: 16px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="max-width: 100%;font-size: 14px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></strong></span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;letter-spacing: 0.5px;font-size: 12px;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);">本文为微信公众号“地道风物”（ID：didaofengwu）授权转载。“地道风物”是来自《中国国家地理》旗下的原创内容公众号，这里汇聚了一群热爱山川美食的人，立志于“寻访最佳物产、捕捉匠心民艺、分享最本真的生活方式。”</span></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;line-height: normal;"><br/></section><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;line-height: normal;"><br/></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">对于大多数北京上班族来说，<strong>北京的早餐忒不友好</strong>。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">便利店的包子皮厚馅儿小，路边的鸡蛋灌饼迎风发抖，早餐车里的烤肠来历不明，外卖的豆浆甜得人心慌。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">很多北漂初来乍到，都会感叹：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“<strong>你们北京人早上就吃这个呀！</strong></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲天冷的时候，北京各地铁口常见这种小摊儿，许多上班族就是这样对付早餐的。</span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“北京没有早餐”，“北京的早餐是全国最难吃的早餐“。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">这话要是让北京土著听见， 准会嘿嘿一笑：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“<strong>姆们北京人确实不吃早餐</strong>。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">”</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">姆们北京人吃早点</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">您觉得难吃，准是因为您吃的是“在北京销售的食物”，和北京早点是两码事儿。</span></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="max-width: 100%;letter-spacing: 0.5px;font-size: 20px;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">烧饼：先让你看看我的排场</span><span style="max-width: 100%;font-size: 15px;color: rgb(212, 166, 105);letter-spacing: 0.5px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;text-align: justify;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></strong></strong></span><br/></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京人管早餐叫“早点”，是受了满清文化的影响</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">满人的饮食又受汉人的影响，早上爱吃烧饼。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">有书记载，乾隆期间，一个和硕亲王的早点相当有排场：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">烧饼、蒸食、甜、咸油炸果各两份；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒菜两种，熟食两种；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">小菜两种，饽饽两种，粥两桶。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></section><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;text-align: left;line-height: normal;"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲如果没有特指，老北京说烧饼，一般是芝麻烧饼。 刚出炉的芝麻烧饼，那叫一个脆酥香润。</span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">饽饽</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">可以是<strong>玫瑰饼</strong>或<strong>牛舌饼</strong>，熟食可能是<strong>酱肉</strong>或<strong>香肠</strong>，无论其他菜式怎么换，<strong>烧饼</strong>每天都在那里，被一众花哨食品簇拥，地位超然。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">一百多年后，老舍写自传小说《正红旗下》，说从前的粥铺早上三点钟开门，炸油条、打烧饼。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">他的大姐每日天不亮就起床，上街给婆婆去买烧饼、油条。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">大姐的婆婆是没落贵族，最在意面子。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">喝粳米粥，吃烧饼油条，是她作为子爵的女儿、佐领的太太，为排场做出的最后努力。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲胡同里的惬意生活，如今依然在继续。烧饼是老北京一天的正确打开方式。</span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">21世纪，很多老北京固守<strong>早点吃烧饼</strong>的传统，并用一点仪式感为这种传统加持。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">吃早点，一定要起早点儿，多早都不嫌早。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">冬天早上五点半，就有刚退休的北京大爷在家门口小公园遛弯儿。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">溜一圈，绕到公园附近的早点铺子，跟老板打声招呼：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“俩芝麻烧饼，豆泡儿汤。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">”</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">一个完美的<strong>北京芝麻烧饼</strong>，比一个北京妞儿说话更干脆，比一个北京出租车司机更有内涵，比一个北京大妈更热情。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;text-align: center;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, Arial, "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;font-size: 14px;text-align: start;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">▲ <span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">2018年8月4日，北京西城区25年的老烧饼铺——徐记烧饼铺将关张，老<span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: start;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">主</span>顾蜂拥而至酷暑排队重温老味道…… </span>图/图虫·创意</span></span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">从前白塔寺的平安巷有个<strong>徐记</strong>，最会做烧饼：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">巴掌大的饼打得焦黄，上面盖一层白芝麻，又厚又匀，外壳不敢捏，碎一点就掉一身渣。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">吃的时候得先坐正了，两腿分开点，烧饼用手托着，一口咬下去，热气就“呼”地一下从饼里喷出来。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">酥脆的外皮，柔软的内心，层次感令人极度愉悦。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">每嚼一下，都能听到芝麻的爆破声。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">舌头上，椒盐儿与麻酱的味道水乳交融，那感觉就两个字：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">上头。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京人做事讲究“有里儿有面儿”，吃顿早点也得顾全大局。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">赶上人多的时候，夫妻俩端着餐盘找座儿，一定会有个北京大爷站起来，跟旁边的陌生人商量：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“咱往北边挪挪，让人家两口子坐一块儿。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">”</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span><br/></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;text-align: center;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲ 豆汁儿、焦圈儿、驴打滚儿、艾窝窝，再加点儿小咸菜，齐活！</span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><section style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><br/></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">光吃烧饼，有点干，得配稀的。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">喝<strong>小米儿粥</strong>，最好再来点<strong>咸菜</strong>，榨菜也行；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">光吃碳水化合物不够，配个<strong>鸡蛋</strong>也好，有点<strong>酱豆腐</strong>也不拒绝。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">七个碟八个碗，这就摆上了。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">有人嫌麻烦，就来一碗<strong>豆泡儿汤</strong>。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆泡儿汤的主要内容是炸豆泡儿，里面调上韭菜花和芝麻酱，辣椒您自个儿加。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">又是稀的，又有蛋白质，这就齐活了，就是还缺点<strong>焦圈儿</strong>。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">火烧加焦圈儿，脆上加脆。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">是为了口感，也能顺便辨别身份——</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;text-align: center;line-height: normal;"><br/></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲ 豆泡儿汤，韭菜花和芝麻酱必不可少。</span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">芝麻烧饼夹焦圈儿</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">，<strong>马蹄儿烧饼得卷油条</strong>。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">您要是卷错了，我保证您上数三代不是北京人。</span></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size: 20px;">豆腐脑儿：</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size: 20px;">我只关注我的前途</span></strong><strong style="font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;text-align: justify;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(212, 166, 105);font-size: 15px;letter-spacing: 0.5px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></strong></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆腐脑儿</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">，千万别念成<strong>豆腐脑</strong>。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">没儿化音，听着像下水。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆腐脑儿是世界上最随和的食材， 加盐就咸，加糖就甜。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">在四川加辣椒，成为<strong>豆腐花</strong>；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">在台湾加油条，称作<strong>咸豆浆</strong>；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">在北京浇汁液勾芡，就成了<strong>豆腐脑儿</strong>。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆腐脑儿用嫩豆腐打底，浇上咸香的卤，北京大街小巷的早点铺子都有的卖，味道不算多新鲜可就是这么普通的一道菜，放眼全北京，愣是没几家能做地道，您说新鲜不新鲜？</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><section style="text-align: center;line-height: normal;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"></section><section style="line-height: normal;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲ 豆腐脑儿：</span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">加吧，想吃啥味儿的您就加啥。 </span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">在北京喝过豆腐脑儿的朋友，敢不敢面对来自老北京豆腐脑儿的灵魂拷问：</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">你喝的豆腐脑儿里<strong>放榨菜</strong>吗？</span></p><p style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">你喝的豆腐脑儿里面<strong>有肉</strong>吗？</span></p><p style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">如果放了肉，是<strong>牛羊肉</strong>吗？</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">只要回答了一个“NO”，那就真是遗憾了。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">实话跟您说，您喝的绝对不是“<strong>老北京豆腐脑儿</strong>”。</span></p><p> </p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">老北京的豆腐脑儿，最开始是<strong>回民菜</strong>，而且是荤菜。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">回民不吃猪肉，因此豆腐脑儿里要切牛羊肉。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">肉不能太碎，用了机器打的肉末就是败笔。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆腐脑儿的卤，内容复杂。</span><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">黄花、黑木耳、鸡蛋花</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">是标配，浇汁要用<strong>卤虾油、蒜末、辣椒油、榨菜末</strong>一起调，芡不能太厚，太厚了糊嘴。</span><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">合格的豆腐脑儿是“咸鲜”的</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">，而不是“咸香”的。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">吃豆腐脑儿，用勺，但不能搅合，容易懈。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">小勺撇着吃，一勺舀起来，豆腐不碎，卤没有坑；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">吃进嘴里，卤汁鲜嫩，不腻不厚，豆腐清爽，不苦不涩。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">尚未来得及细品，豆腐已然滑进嗓子眼儿，只好再舀一勺。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">每一勺的味道都要均匀，这碗豆腐脑儿才算地道。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">当然了，您平时吃的那些个加豆腐干的、不放鸡蛋的、不加肉的豆腐脑儿也算豆腐脑儿，但是那叫“<strong>天津豆腐脑儿</strong>”。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">姆们北京人不认。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></section><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲这种清汤寡水的豆腐脑儿，一看就不是姆们北京豆腐脑儿，就算您在北京吃的，姆们也不认。</span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">天津卫的豆腐脑儿是素的，成本低，更容易推广，受众也广，渐渐挤掉了北京版本的市场。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">身为北京人，想喝一碗正宗的北京豆腐脑儿，得大老远跑去东四的<strong>增盛魁</strong>，或者什刹海的<strong>豆腐脑白</strong>，车钱比饭钱还贵，想想真是心酸。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">姆们北京人太难了，北京豆腐脑儿也太难了，替它的前途担心一分钟。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">就一分钟不能再多了，北京人就这性格，大大咧咧，不计较钱——哪怕只剩铺盖卷儿，不愿费心钻钱眼儿。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲北京黑窑厂街糖油饼，号称全北京最好吃的糖油饼。</span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京人的早点往往<strong>甜咸搭配</strong>，豆腐脑儿最好配<strong>糖油饼</strong>。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">上好的糖油饼以白糖和面，卖相标准：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">焦黄，立体，形似飞碟。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">路边那些油饼平得像盘子，说明炸油饼的师傅功力不够。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">就那水平，哪好意思说这叫炸的是油饼啊？</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">还放红糖？</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">歇了吧您呐。</span></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: center;line-height: normal;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong><span style="font-size: 20px;">炒肝儿：</span><span style="font-size: 20px;">还是要为自己争辩一下</span></strong></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北漂们总说，北京的传统早点让人接受无力——<strong>豆汁儿</strong>像泔水，<strong>面茶</strong>糊一嘴，<strong>炒肝儿</strong>像排泄物，唯独家常的<strong>炸馒头干儿</strong>还算能入口吧，一抹上臭豆腐，全完。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">也是，如果四岁那年的夏天，没有天天跟着爷爷出门儿遛鸟，听白文鸣翠柳，看麻雀上青天，胡同口那家豆汁儿估计也喝不进去。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">如果六岁那年的冬天，没跟着姥姥去东华门，抬眼瞧见一排枯树后面瓷蓝的天，又在早点铺子里遇见漂亮小姐姐，谁也不会认为一碗棒子面糊糊浇上芝麻酱有什么吃头。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京人承认，老北京的早点有些风格清奇的菜色，但是关于<strong>炒肝儿</strong>，咱还是要辩一辩。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;text-align: justify;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲北京炒肝儿。</span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="text-align: left;color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝儿，儿是重点。</span><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝，那是另一道菜，学名溜肝尖，做法完全不一样</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝儿虽说是“炒”，其实是煮出来的。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">三分之二的猪大肠，配上三分之一的猪肝，是炒肝儿的主要食材。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">以前还有人放猪心、猪肺，总之，全是下水。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝儿里有大量的蒜，勾极重的芡，颜色深棕，卖相不好。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">可是，你要为这些理由拒绝炒肝儿吗？</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝儿里都是内脏，天天吃鸭胗和脑花的四川人，你们真的会嫌弃？</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝儿勾芡厚，口感厚重，滑腻，天天喝藕粉的安徽人，你们竟然会敏感？</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">炒肝儿里全是大蒜，天天吃大蒜的云南人，你们不好意思说不吧？</span></p><section style="text-align: center;line-height: normal;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></section><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">它只是在外形上有一点小小的门槛，轻轻跨过去就得了呗。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: 1.75em;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京的炒肝儿，有人说<strong>天兴居</strong>最地道，也有人说<strong>会仙居、祥八福</strong>最顺口。</span></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: 1.75em;"><br/></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: 1.75em;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">这些地方的炒肝儿都有几个共同点。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第一<strong>料足</strong>，肝的分量够大；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第二<strong>芡勾得好</strong>，不发白，不结块，浓度适中；</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第三<strong>闻着香</strong>，不臭、不寡淡。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">这三点是基本标准。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;text-align: center;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, Arial, "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;font-size: 14px;text-align: start;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">▲胡同里的烧饼，是多少老北京的早点记忆。</span></span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;">图 / 图虫·创意</span></section><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;line-height: 1.75em;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">吃炒肝儿，必须就着包子</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">，别的主食不能将就。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京的包子皮厚，不如南方包子软萌，反而给了炒肝儿表现实力、发挥技能的空间——把一个完整的包子浸入一碗炒肝儿，提起来，包子被薄薄的、均匀地“包浆”，说明芡的浓度合适。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">咬一口，再“特儿喽”一口炒肝儿——可千万别用勺！</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">包子裹上炒肝儿的咸香，滋味比打卤面含蓄，比盖浇饭丰富，矛盾又互为支撑，独立又相互渗透，怎么跟您形容呢，您自己个儿尝尝就知道了。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">就是那卖相，还是有点惊悚。</span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><br/></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br/></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong><span style="font-size: 20px;">豆汁儿：</span><span style="font-size: 20px;">请记住我的叮嘱</span></strong><strong style="font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;text-align: justify;max-width: 100%;letter-spacing: 0.5px;color: rgb(212, 166, 105);font-size: 15px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></strong></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">多嘴嘱咐您一句，您可一定记住喽：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">要是哪一天，您跨越心理障碍，冷不丁爱上了炒肝儿，千万千万，别让北京人知道。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">只要他们知道了，一定会兴冲冲带您去体验高阶北京早点——<strong>豆汁儿</strong>。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><section style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></section><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;"></span></section><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, Arial, "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;font-size: 14px;text-align: start;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">▲您尝尝</span></span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;">这个豆汁儿，它酸又臭啊。嚯～，再来一碗！图 / 图虫·创意</span></section><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: 1.75em;"><br/></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">北京人爱喝豆汁儿，一个重要原因是<strong>因为豆汁儿便宜</strong>。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">解放前穷人吃不上饭的时候，每天早上都端一锅豆汁儿，混上家里的剩菜一煮，一家子喝一天。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆汁儿养胃还去火，穷苦的北京土著就靠它顽强地活下来。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">味道有点酸，有点臭</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">——豆渣发酵可不就是这个味儿吗。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">上瘾！</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">梁实秋说过：</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">“自从离开北平，想念豆汁儿不能自已。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">”</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, Arial, "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;font-size: 14px;text-align: start;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">▲有人到北京拿炸灌肠儿当早餐，您也是一壮士</span></span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;">。图 / 图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆汁儿的审美门槛高，并不是每一个北京人都爱喝，尤其年轻人，捏着鼻子尝一口，眉头皱半天，转头就吐的大有人在。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">有人别说喝豆汁儿，闻见那味儿就晕车。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">如果您出于猎奇心理，非想尝试一次，那就听听老北京人的建议：</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第一，<strong>千万别叫外卖</strong>，外卖的塑料碗和豆汁儿犯冲。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">大冬天，一碗豆汁儿被塑料碗捂上半个小时，那就是生化武器。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第二，不是所有的豆汁儿都叫豆汁儿。</span><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">豆汁儿得喝浓的</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">，稀汤寡水不地道。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">天坛公园对面有一胡同，胡同口的<strong>尹三豆汁儿</strong>值得一试。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, Arial, "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;font-size: 14px;text-align: start;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲</span></span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;">北京天坛北门对面的老磁器口豆汁儿店，是老北京常去的店，也是外地游客打卡老北京美食的网红店。图 / 图虫·创意</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第三，可别信什么豆汁儿配焦圈儿。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><strong>头一回喝豆汁儿</strong>，那焦圈儿的味道根本压不住场，</span><strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">来一芝麻烧饼比什么都强</span></strong><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第四，<strong>趁热喝</strong>，撂凉了就永远喝不进去了。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">第五，嗨，也没有第五了。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">不是什么高级料理，<strong>没那么多讲究</strong>，您抽空去喝一次就全明白了。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">一回生二回熟，多喝两次就上头。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">您不爱喝也没关系，但是别鄙视，说什么“豆汁儿”一股穷酸味儿。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">高级货是什么呀？</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">日本的纳豆儿，法国的蓝纹？齁儿贵，吃之前还得鞠俩躬，系条领带——真不如豆汁儿仁义。</span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">关键是，都是发酵食品，谁嫌弃谁呀～</span><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"></p><section style="margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">▲ 没想到，吃“麦当劳配炒肝儿”的大张伟，包饺子也是一把好手。</span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </span><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136);font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">图/soogif</span></section><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">之前有个综艺采访大张伟，大老师说，早餐他最爱吃“<strong>麦当劳配炒肝儿</strong>”，这个搭配听着无厘头，细想想，倒也合情合理。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"></span><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">80后的北京孩子左手举着洋快餐，右手端着北京菜长大，自然要拿汉堡配炒肝儿，没毛病。</span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 1.75em;margin-left: 8px;margin-right: 8px;"><span style="font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;">00后也可以考虑用三明治配炒肝儿，10后就用意大利面配豆腐脑儿，怎么搭配不要紧，最要紧的是，<strong>姆们北京早点的大旗不能倒</strong>。</span></p><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;line-height: 1.75em;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br/></p><section style="padding-right: 10px;padding-left: 10px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;font-size: 16px;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin-top: 10px;margin-bottom: 10px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="padding-right: 6px;padding-bottom: 8px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;border-width: 1px;border-style: solid;border-color: rgb(192, 200, 209);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;height: 8px;width: 528px;border-left: 1px solid rgb(192, 200, 209);transform: rotate(-45deg);transform-origin: left top;border-top-color: rgb(192, 200, 209);border-right-color: rgb(192, 200, 209);border-bottom-color: rgb(192, 200, 209);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section style="margin: -8px -7px -8px 5px;padding: 10px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;border-width: 1px;border-style: solid;border-color: rgb(192, 200, 209);background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);box-shadow: rgb(0, 0, 0) 0px 0px 0px;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;text-align: center;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><p style="max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-size: 14px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><p style="max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-size: 14px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><p style="max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="max-width: 100%;font-size: 13px;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">你在北京，还吃过哪些骨骼清奇的早餐？</strong><strong style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></strong></span></p><p style="max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;max-width: 100%;min-height: 1em;font-family: -apple-system-font, system-ui, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;line-height: 1.75em;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif;text-size-adjust: auto;text-align: center;min-height: 1em;color: rgb(102, 102, 102);font-size: 16px;letter-spacing: 1px;line-height: 1.75em;"><strong style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size: 18px;">推 荐 阅 读</strong><strong style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size: 18px;"></strong><br/></section><section style="margin-right: 8px;margin-bottom: 5px;margin-left: 8px;white-space: normal;font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, 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